by Kenton Shepard and Nick Gromicko

     The purpose of the series “Mastering Roof Inspections” is to teach home inspectors, as well as insurance and roofing professionals, how to recognize proper and improper conditions while inspecting steep-slope, residential roofs. This series covers roof framing, roofing materials, the attic, and the conditions that affect the roofing materials and components, including wind and hail.

   

SKYLIGHTS

 

You’ll see skylight flashing installed using a number of methods, depending on the age of the type of skylight, the type of roof-covering material, and who installed it.

 

Self-Flashed

 

 

 

Self-flashed skylights come from the factory with flanges that fit against the roof. The flashing kits that come with them are relatively simple to install.

 

Curb-Mounted

 

 

 

Curb-mounted skylights are mounted on a curb built from 2x4 or 2x6 on edge, as you see here.

 

 

Flashing kits are available for standard-sized curbs or flashing, and may be hand-fabricated, as this was.

 

 

Looking at a few key points will tell you about the quality of the installation. Above the skylight, shingles or slate should stop an inch or so short of the skylight itself to create a melt-water channel.

 

 

At the two uphill corners, the flashing should extend past the corner at least 1/8-inch. The type of flashing used on the sidewall and downhill sides of the skylight will depend on the type of roof-covering material installed.

 

 

As always, you'll be watching for and commenting on any broken skylights.

 

MECHANICAL ATTACHMENT POINTS

 

Various types of mechanical equipment installed on roofs have fasteners that penetrate the roof-covering material. Some examples are:

 

 

 

braces for chimneys,

 

 

air-conditioning equipment,

 

 

photovoltaic panels,

 

 

solar thermal panels for hot water,

 

 

satellite dishes,

 

 

and attachments for patio covers.

 

Basically, anything that penetrates the roofing is a potential entry point for moisture and should be looked at closely, both on the roof and from inside the attic, when possible.

 

Penetrations should be well-flashed and/or sealed.  Again, anytime a sealant is used, it will eventually dry, shrink, crack and may leak, so each penetration is another potential area of leakage.