Mastering Roof Inspections: Asphalt Composition Shingles, Part 18
by Kenton Shepard and Nick Gromicko
The purpose of the series “Mastering Roof Inspections” is to teach home inspectors,
as well as insurance and roofing professionals, how to recognize proper and improper conditions while inspecting steep-slope,
residential roofs. This series covers roof framing, roofing materials, the attic, and the conditions that affect the roofing
materials and components, including wind and hail.
FLASHING, Part 2
SIDEWALL FLASHING
A sidewall is a junction between a wall and a sloped portion of roof.
Step-Flashing
Sidewalls on roofs covered with asphalt
shingles should always be flashed using step-flashing. A step-flashing is a short section of flashing that overlaps each shingle
in the course below and is overlapped by each shingle in the course above.
Counter-Flashing
Except where walls are brick, the vertical part of the sidewall flashing should extend up behind the exterior wall-covering,
just like with headwalls.
Although you may sometimes see counter-flashing installed, it’s more common
that the exterior wall covering acts as the counter-flashing. The exception is brick.
Sidewall Defects
If you see continuous, one-piece flashing used as
sidewall flashing with shingles, such as the one pictured above, it’s a defective installation.
You’ll see it fairly often because it’s
a common defect. It’s easier to see in some situations than others.
This is an example of a defective installation
where an asphalt shingle roof meets a stone sidewall. Instead of installing the step-flashing between the shingles, the lower
flange rests on top of the shingles.
You’ll
see sealant substituted for flashing in many different areas on roofs.
Sealant
will eventually dry, shrink and crack.
Correction is most easily accomplished when the roof
is replaced, but that can be expensive. These asphalt shingles are installed over wood shingles. If the limit in this jurisdiction
is two layers, then, before re-roofing can take place, all roofing materials will have to be removed.
Since many jurisdictions no longer allow wood roofs, and asphalt shingles should not be installed over spaced
sheathing the way wood shingles are, then this roof would need solid sheathing installed over the existing sheathing
across the entire roof.
The new step-flashing will need to have the vertical flange inserted
behind the exterior wall covering. In this case, that’s wood shingles, too. This might require cutting the wall
shingles up a couple of inches above the surface of the new sheathing. There will be nails in the way when the roofer is inserting
the vertical flange. It will be not be a quick process. It will be expensive to have done correctly.
Because
this is something of a quality issue and a potentially large expense, you might not want to be aggressive in insisting
that this condition be corrected. If you were inspecting this home, you’d want to alert your client to the fact
that this condition might involve considerable future expense to correct. You should also recommend annual inspection and
re-application of an appropriate sealant, as necessary, and let your client know that the sidewall joint should have had flashing
installed.
Considering the age of this home, it may have been correctly flashed when it was first
built, but the original flashing may have failed due to corrosion.
Correction can be even more expensive with
other types of wall-covering materials.
Wall-Covering Clearance
In both headwall and sidewall conditions,
unless the exterior wall is brick, you should see a gap of at least 1½ inches between the bottom of the exterior wall-covering
material and the top of the roof-covering material.
You’ll often see siding and stucco installed right down on top of the shingles. Without a gap, the exterior wall-covering
can wick up moisture from the roof. This can lead to decay, delamination, peeling paint, and other problems. This
condition is especially common on roofs with multiple layers of shingles.
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