Mastering Roof Inspections: Penetrations, Part 1
by Kenton Shepard and Nick Gromicko
The purpose of the series “Mastering Roof Inspections” is to teach home inspectors,
as well as insurance and roofing professionals, how to recognize proper and improper conditions while inspecting steep-slope,
residential roofs. This series covers roof framing, roofing materials, the attic, and the conditions that affect the roofing
materials and components, including wind and hail.
Chimney Inspection: Part 1
The IRC requires that roof penetrations such as chimneys,
vents and skylights be protected by flashing. That flashing should be installed in a manner that keeps water out. It
has to be in good condition.
The IRC has requirements for minimum metal gauge, but unless you
carry a micrometer on inspections, determining the gauge of metal flashing exceeds the scope of your inspection.
The flashing details will vary with the type of penetration, with the type of roof-covering material, and
also the type exterior wall covering -- sometimes with sidewall and headwall conditions.
Installers
flashing brick and stone chimneys face the same problems as they do when flashing brick and stone headwalls and sidewalls.
The problem is in properly installing counter-flashing. Let’s look at a couple of brick chimneys -- one with counter-flashing
installed correctly, and one with counter-flashing installed using a sealant.
CHIMNEY INSPECTION
Here are some other parts of a chimney that
inspectors should look at while on the roof.
Height
To help make sure that it draws well enough;
the chimney should terminate a minimum of 2 feet above any part of the roof within 10 feet.
It
should also be a minimum of 3 feet tall on its shortest side.
Here, you see spark arrester for a wood-burning
chimney, and a combustion cap for a gas-burning appliance.
Air flowing across the chimney opening
helps pull exhaust gasses out of the flue. This fireplace may smoke, but at least smoke is obvious to the occupants. If poor
draft causes the gas flue to backdraft, the occupants may not be aware that the invisible, toxic byproducts of combustion
are entering the living space.

To have adequate clearance, homes with especially
steep roofs will need especially tall chimneys, such as the one here on the infamous Jon Benet Ramsey house. Tall
chimneys should have a supporting brace.
In windy areas, you may see long braces supported by
an additional brace. High winds can cause braces to vibrate so strongly that they damage the chimney.
This tower was built on the upwind side of this
chimney, blocking air flow past the chimney and causing it to draw poorly.
The extension was added to the chimney in
an attempt to move the chimney termination back into the airflow.
This is not a good solution,
since the hot exhaust gasses will be cooled by the excessively long flue. As the gasses cool, condensation will form.

The white efflorescence visible on the surface
of the brick and mortar is caused by moisture from condensation. Over time, it will deteriorate the chimney and its lining,
and it may possibly damage whatever heating device is at the other end of that chimney.
FLASHING
The point at which the chimney penetrates
the roof is basically a big hole in the roof. No matter what type of chimney it is or what the material is that
covers its exterior, the penetration should be sealed with flashing. If it’s left in place long enough, metal flashing
eventually corrodes and leaks. If it’s installed incorrectly, it may start leaking immediately.
Sidewall and Headwall Flashing
Sidewall and headwall flashing at chimneys are no different from those conditions
at walls. The profile of the flashing will depend on the type of roof-covering material installed. The method of installing
counter-flashing will depend on the chimney exterior. Since many chimneys are brick, let's look at an example of a brick
chimney.
This illustration shows counter-flashing
installed correctly. It fits into grooves cut into the mortar joints. After the counter-flashing is installed, the grooves
are sealed with an appropriate sealant.
…and here’s a look at the real
thing. You can see the counter-flashing installed in slots cut onto the mortar joints and on the low side of the chimney.
The apron flashing, which is basically a headwall condition, overlaps the slate covering the roof.
Most
of the time, this is typical of what you’ll see.
Here’s an example of a stone chimney
flashed correctly. Counter-flashing on stone chimneys usually relies on a sealant because it’s cheaper and easier
than installing it correctly.

This is especially true on rough stone chimneys.
Counter-flashing is especially difficult to retrofit to the uneven surface.

You’ll
sometimes see unique approaches to keeping the water out of the roof.

Because brick and stone chimneys so often have counter-flashing
installed incorrectly, the incorrect practice has become what’s normal. These photos show very common conditions.

If you recommend in your inspection report that counter-flashing
protected only by a sealant be corrected, a seller will be quick to point out that practically every other home in town is
flashed the same way.

Instead of recommending correction, you might want to
limit your report to mentioning that “counter-flashing was installed in a manner which will require ongoing maintenance.”

Here’s
a stone chimney with stone flashing!
In your report, evaluate the current condition, and add
that the flashing is dependent on a sealant to prevent moisture intrusion. Explain that sealant will eventually dry, shrink
and crack, and should be checked annually, and an appropriate sealant re-applied as necessary.
If
you see counter-flashing attached with a sealant only, look for signs of moisture intrusion, such as stains or decay
in the roof sheathing around the penetration. You’ll see it best from the attic.
It’s always a good idea to test any problem areas you find with a moisture meter
to see if elevated moisture levels indicate recent leakage.
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